Some possible Spy Radio Layout ideas – with a key mounted on top
I think the idea of having the key mounted on top is out. The reason – I would have to recess the panel so that the lid will close. This would also eliminate the meter – and I really want a working meter – even if it is just to monitor power out (which I think is an easy thing to get working as opposed to the S meter idea or say an SWR meter). If I had a power out – and did use the End Fed antenna tuner kit that I purchased – then I could simply tune the tuner for maximum output. The thing is – since the rig is fixed on 7.030 plus one other nearby frequency – I’m not sure the end fed tuner is actually needed. I could just cut one antenna and it will be pre-tuned to the crystal frequency.
This is a better idea – I can have the meter
So, now that I am going to have the key outboard to the rig – I will use one set of binding posts for the key. For my KX-3, I use a solar powered battery, so that will also be external – that means a second set of binding posts. For an on board key – the B and G buttons work just fine. The IN and OUT works perfectly for the SPOT. If I move that PC board down, then there would be three holes along the top for the three controls (Volume, Tune and Fine Tune). Boy I really want to get the meter that came with this box working – I need to play with it and see if its usable.
This is the battery compartment – it has a metal plate that covers the hole
I will use the battery compartment to house a “secret” mini more code straight key – maybe like this:
Morse Express sells these “SOX Keys”
I just remembered – Morse Express has their annual “Christmas Key”, and they have one from 2005 that will fit inside this little “mouse hole”:
For an antenna connector and headphones – I will have them on the top panel – either a BNC or SO-239 in the upper part and the headphone towards the bottom.
I’m starting to look at Tap Plastics – where I would have a new Acrylic sheet made – and where I could have the three controls with knobs surface mounted on the PC board and where I would drill out the holes to accommodate. I’ll still use 4 binding posts, and the meter. I’m starting to lean heavily towards a new panel – because the old one has a terrible mess on one side from a sticker than has been affixed for years – and getting the goo off seems impossible. There are also several areas of scratches and there would be holes that I would have to plug up or mask. A new back acrylic plate is only $10 at Tap – so I am sure that’s what I will do.
If I can’t get a meter circuit, its not the end of the world – but that just makes the box look ultra cool.
OK – its good to “play” with the design – it lets me know what I will mounting on the PC board as far as the controls are concerned, and where and how the PC board will be mounted.